The Australian Empire

From the Equator to the Pole

NEW SOUTH WALES (1788)

New South Wales is a State of Australia and covers an area of 801,640 sq km and has a population of about 6,463,800. The landscape ranges from the subtropical north to the Snowy Mountains in the south, which contain Australia’s highest point, Mount Kosciuszko.

In 1788 New South Wales covered much of Australia’s central and eastern coasts. Between 1825 and 1911, its area gradually reduced as the other States and Territories were proclaimed.

The 1788 proclamation of New South Wales included ‘neighbouring islands’. As such, New Zealand was also considered to be part of New South Wales from 1788 until Britain formally claimed it as a separate colony in 1840.

 

History

Lieutenant James Cook in 1770 claimed New South Wales for Britain ignoring its indigenous inhabitants by wrongly stating that it was terra nullius (uninhabited land). Surprisingly the proclamation only claimed the eastern part of the continent rather than its whole.

Captain Phillip landed with the First Fleet of 11 ships, 750 convicts and 400 military personnel in 1788. Clinging to the coast, the colony struggled to grow enough crops to sustain itself. The Great Dividing Range was a rugged obstacle to the inland and it wasn't until 1813 that explorers beat a path through the seemingly un-navigable bush. This allowed inland towns such as Bathurst to haul crops to the capital, and further exploration into inland areas. By the 1830s, explorers had mapped out most of inland NSW, and the discovery of gold in the central west in the 1850s attracted an influx of free settlers.

The Great Depression hit the state hard and then Premier Jack Lang controversially decided to default on the state's loans from Britain. The state eventually recovered with wool prices and manufacturing making a comeback in the 1930s, and the building of the internationally recognisable Sydney Harbour Bridge in 1932.

After World War ll construction in Sydney boomed. In the state's south, work began on the mammoth Snowy Mountain Hydro-electric Scheme, which took almost 30 years to complete using a huge immigrant workforce that broadened Australia's monoculture.

The 1980s saw another boom, with much development in Sydney, but a recession in the 1990s slowed the whole state and threatened to wipe out agricultural industry. By 1996 the state was improving economically and socially. Hosting the 2000 Olympic Games saw Sydney riding high once again, with tourism a major focus in the new millennium.

 

Interesting Facts

·        The site of first settlement by Captain Arthur Phillip in 1788 (The Rocks) is now at the very centre of Australia’s largest city (Sydney).

·        The acronym ‘NSW’ is sometimes used sarcastically to mean ‘Newcastle, Sydney and Wollongong’ by those living in the less populated (and possibly neglected) parts of the state.

·        Broken Hill is in many ways part of South Australia: it’s closer to Adelaide than Sydney, operates under Central Standard Time, and prefers SA media.

·        The Murray River forms most of the border between New South Wales and Victoria. To be precise, the border is formed by the southern bank of the river meaning that its length is entirely located in New South Wales until South Australia is reached.

 

Figure 19 - New South Wales

 

Figure 20 – Broken Hill showing Central Standard Time Zone

 

The Black-Allan Line

In 1845 the early explorer-surveyor Thomas Scott Townsend found the most easterly source of the Murray River. The location, now called Indi Springs, is where the waters of the Murray escape from the slopes of Forest Hill to begin their 2,575 km journey to the sea.

Upon establishment of the colony of Victoria in 1851, it was determined that its border with New South Wales would primarily be formed by the length of the River Murray, with a connecting straight line from its source to Cape Howe.

The Black-Allan Line is the line surveyed by Alexander Black and Alexander Allan between 1870 and 1872. This task proved to be very challenging through the uncharted and rugged terrain of the 180 km route.

For reasons now unclear, the Black-Allan Line was never formally proclaimed as a border although it was accepted by both states under common law. This situation, however, was put to rights in 2006 when both states’ parliaments finally made the proclamations which had originally been drafted in 1873. 

 

Figure 21 – The Black-Allan Line                                     (Source: Institute of Surveyors)

 

 

Figure 22 – River Murray near its source at Indi Springs                 (Source: Steve Jones)

TASMANIA (1825)

Tasmania is an island located 240 km south of Victoria across Bass Strait. The state also includes numerous other islands such as the Hunter Islands, the Furneaux Groups, the Kent Group, King Island, Maria Island and Macquarie Island. Tasmania has a total area of about 67,800 sq km and a population of about 500,000. Main towns are Hobart, Launceston, Devonport and Burnie.

Tasmania is widely regarded as the most mountainous island in the world. The highest point is Mount Ossa which rises 1,617 m on Tasmania's large, high-lying central plateau. This plateau also includes many lakes and several rivers. The coastline is generally ragged and substantial coastal plains are situated only in the northeast and northwest. Tasmania has a mild, moist climate.

 

History

The first European to visit the island of Tasmania was Dutch navigator Abel Tasman in 1642. He named it Van Diemen's Land, after the governor of the Netherlands Indies. Great Britain claimed the island in 1788 as part of New South Wales, and in 1803 British convicts became the first European settlers. After the arrival of some free settlers, Van Diemen's Land was made a separate British colony in 1825. In 1855 the colony was granted responsible government and in 1856 the name Tasmania was adopted. Tasmania became a constituent state of the Commonwealth of Australia in 1901.

Industrialization was spurred after 1945 by the construction of large hydroelectric projects, notably on the Derwent, Forth, and Mersey rivers. Chief manufactures in the state are forest products, processed foods and minerals, textiles and cement. Tourism also is an important source of income. National parks cover more than 20 percent of Tasmania and are popular tourist attractions. The largest of these parks is South West National Park, also designated as a World Heritage site.

 

Interesting Facts

·        Tasmania is the 24th largest island in the world

·        The Cascade brewery in Hobart is Australia's oldest brewery

·        Lake St Clair is over 200 m deep and is Australia's deepest natural lake

·        Tasmania has the tallest hardwood trees in the world with some Mountain Ashes 89 m tall

·        A Huon pine tree in the south-west is estimated to be 4,000 years old, making it the oldest living thing on earth

·        Tasmania is closer to the equator than Rome, Chicago, New York or Madrid

·        Tasmania is the most decentralised Australian State

 

 

Figure 23 – Tasmania

 

Table 6 - The 25 Largest Islands in the World

No

Island

Location

Country

Area (sq km)

1

Greenland

North Atlantic

Denmark

2,175,597

2

New Guinea

Southwest Pacific

Indonesia, PNG

820,033

3

Borneo

West mid-Pacific

Indonesia, Malaysia, Brunei

743,107

4

Madagascar

Indian Ocean

Malagasy Republic

587,042

5

Baffin

North Atlantic

Canada

476,068

6

Sumatra

Northeast Indian Ocean

Indonesia

473,605

8

Honshu

Sea of Japan

Japan

230,316

9

Great Britain

Off coast of NW Europe

England, Scotland and Wales

229,883

10

Ellesmere

Arctic Ocean

Canada

212,688

11

Victoria

Arctic Ocean

Canada

212,199

12

Sulawesi

West mid-Pacific

Indonesia

189,034

13

South Island

South Pacific

New Zealand

150,461

14

Java

Indian Ocean

Indonesia

126,884

15

North Island

South Pacific

New Zealand

114,688

16

Cuba

Caribbean Sea

Canada

114,525

17

Newfoundland

North Atlantic

Canada

110,681

18

Luzon

West mid-Pacific

Philippines

104,688

19

Iceland

North Atlantic

Iceland

102,999

20

Mindanao

West mid-Pacific

Philippines

94,631

21

Ireland

West of Great Britain

Ireland, United Kingdom

84,426

22

Hokkaido

Sea of Japan

Japan

78,663

23

Hispaniola

Caribbean Sea

Dominican Republic, Haiti

76,029

24

Tasmania

South of Australia

Australia

67,897

25

Sri Lanka

Indian Ocean

Sri Lanka

65,610

 

 

Figure 24 – Lake St Clair                                                                                                (Source: ABC)

 

 

Figure 25 – The Cascade Brewery in Hobart, Australia’s oldest

 

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Western Australia is the largest state in Australia covering 2,529,775 sq km. It is also one of the largest geopolitical subdivisions anywhere. In fact if Western Australia separated from the rest of the nation, it would become the tenth largest country in the world (see tables below). Perth is the state's capital and has a population of about 1.3 million people.

Perth is closer to Singapore than to Sydney and there has always been a strong sense of isolation from the rest of the country due to its distance from the eastern states. Western Australia was the last state to agree to join the Commonwealth of Australia in 1901 and was finally persuaded when it was guaranteed that a railway would be built across the Nullarbor.


History

The coast of Western Australia was probably visited by several Spanish and Portuguese navigators in the 1500s. In 1616 the Dutch ship Eendracht, commanded by Captain Dirk Hartog, was the first known European ship to land on Australian soil at Shark Bay and nailed a pewter plate to a pole. Later that century Abel Tasman surveyed its northern coastline. The Dutch maps at this time identified the land as ‘Hollandae Nova’ (New Holland) but strangely never formally claimed or occupied the country. They saw little trade value in the country and seemed content to stay in nearby Batavia (now Jakarta) in Indonesia.

Between 1698 and 1700, an English buccaneer, William Dampier, made two trips to Australia. The British were unimpressed by his reports about the place but in 1825 a penal colony was established and settlement began. In 1829 Western Australia was proclaimed as a British Colony and Perth was founded as the Swan River Settlement. It grew very slowly until 1850 when further convicts were brought in to alleviate a labour shortage.

Perth's development lagged behind that of the eastern cities until Western Australia's mineral wealth was exploited. The discovery of gold around Kalgoorlie in 1890 led to increased settlement and the development of port facilities at Fremantle. Perth’s population increased four-fold in a decade and initiated a building boom. The completion of the transcontinental railway in 1917 aided the state’s growth and prosperity. Substantial iron ore deposits in the Hamersley area have been exploited since the 1950s. By the 1980s Perth epitomised the decade's obsession with fast money. The political and corporate scandals that have shaken the state in recent years have added to its frontier, get-rich-quick image.

 

Interesting facts

·        Dirk Hartog’s 1616 plate was eventually recovered and is now in the in Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum. It represents the oldest known European artefact to be found in Australia.

·        The first nuclear test in Australia was conducted on 3 October 1952 in the Monte Bello Islands off north western Western Australia. The device tested a plutonium implosion bomb similar to the Nagasaki bomb. The explosion occurred inside the hull of the HMS Plym and left a saucer-shaped crater on the seabed 20 feet deep and 1,000 feet across.

·        The Horizontal Waterfalls are located deep within the Buccaneer Archipelago. The tides in this area have a 10 metre variation and turn every six and a half hours. The McLarty Ranges form two ridges that separate Talbot Bay from an inner bay. Two small gaps (10 and 20 m wide) have formed in the Ranges. Four metre high waterfalls are created by the tide building up in front of the gaps faster than it can flow through. This is repeated when the tide turns. David Attenborough has described this as one of the greatest natural wonders of the world.

 

Figure 26 - Western Australia

Table 7 - The Ten Biggest Countries by Area

No.

Country

Area (sq km)

1

Russia

17,075,200

2

Canada

9,976,140

3

United States

9,639,810

4

People's Republic of China

9,598,077

5

Brazil

8,511,965

6

Australia

7,692,671

7

India

3,287,590

8

Argentina

2,766,890

9

Kazakhstan

2,727,300

10

Sudan

2,505,810

Table 8 - The Ten Biggest Countries if Western Australia was a Separate Country

No.

Country

Area (sq km)

1

Russia

17,075,200

2

Canada

9,976,140

3

United States

9,639,810

4

People's Republic of China

9,598,077

5

Brazil

8,511,965

6

Australia

5,162,896

7

India

3,287,590

8

Argentina

2,766,890

9

Kazakhstan

2,727,300

10

Western Australia

2,529,775

 

 

Figure 27 – The Montebello Islands – site of the first atomic test in Australia (Source: NASA World Wind)

 

 

Figure 28 – The Horizontal Waterfalls as the sea rushes from Talbot Bay (Source: Derby Tourism Assoc)

  

Figure 29 – The McLarty Ranges and the waterfalls in action (Source: Google Maps)

 

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

South Australia covers an area of 983,482 sq km and has a population of about 1,500,000. The State's capital Adelaide is on Gulf St Vincent and has a population of 1,085,000 people. When the early colonists began building Adelaide they built with stone, constructing a solid, dignified city that is civilised and calm in a way that no other Australian state capital can match.

 

History

The site for Adelaide was chosen in December 1836 by the colony's far-sighted Surveyor-General, Colonel William Light, who created its remarkable design. The site was well-drained, had fertile soil and straddled the Torrens River, which guaranteed a ready water supply. The site was named after Queen Adelaide, wife of the King William IV.

The Chairman of the Colonisation Commission for South Australia, Robert Torrens, said that living in South Australia was: 'far preferable to rambling over the back settlements of America or mixing with Catholics in the bleak unhealthy wilds of Canada or to enduring the depraved society of New South Wales…..South Australia will soon become the great rice and wool growing country of the world and that its climate will make it possible to produce opium for the China trade'.

Torrens also predicted that New South Wales would lose its supremacy and probably become a provincial appendage to South Australia.

South Australia was settled by free people and has no convict history. It was also unusual in that the British Government gave the colony no financial backing, so when things finally took off in Adelaide, most of the money stayed in the state. The colony promised settlers civil and religious liberty and by 1839, Lutherans fleeing religious persecution were arriving from Prussia. In 1840, 6557 Europeans lived in Adelaide; by 1851 the European population was 14,577. By the early 1840s the town had about 30 satellite villages, including the German settlements of Hahndorf, Klemzig and Lobethal, where the state's wine industry was founded.

A wheat boom in the 1870s and 80s set off a building boom, and a lot of the beautiful buildings which still line the city's streets were built during these decades. Rapid expansion also took place during World War I and the 1920s. The busy post-World War II years saw new migrants arrive from Europe. During the late 60s and 70s, South Australia made several ground-breaking political reforms, prohibiting sexual discrimination, racial discrimination and capital punishment, and recognising Aboriginal land rights.

 

Figure 30 - South Australia

 

Figure 31 – Lake Eyre

Interesting Facts

·        Lake Eyre is the lowest point in Australia (16 m below sea level). It is 23rd largest outright lake, and fifth largest terminal lake in the world (6,216 sq km).

·        The first European visitor to South Australia was Dutchmen Peter Nuyts in 1627.

·        Europeans started living on Kangaroo Island well before the official proclamation of the colony in 1836. South Australia’s first and oldest European tree, a mulberry, was planted at this time and still grows at Reeves Point.  

 

Table 9 - Lowest Points on each Continent

No.

Location

Continent

Elevation (m)

Notes

1.

Dead Sea

Asia

-409

Current water level

2.

Lake Assal

Africa

-156

 

3.

Death Valley

North America

-86

 

4.

Valdús Peninsula

South America

-40

 

5.

Caspian Sea

Europe

-28

Current water level

6.

Lake Eyre

Australia

-16

When dry

7.

Unnamed

Antarctica

-2,538

Under ice

 

Table 10 – 25 Largest Lakes in the World

No.

Lake

Location

Area (sq km)

Notes

1       

Caspian Sea

Kazakhstan, Russia, Iran + 2

371,000

Saline

2      

Superior

Canada, USA

82,100

 

3      

Victoria

Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania

69,500

 

4      

Huron

Canada, USA

59,600

Linked to Michigan

5      

Michigan

Canada, USA

57,800

Linked to Huron

6      

Tanganyika

Tanzania, Burundi, Zambia + 2

32,900

 

7      

Baikal

Russia

31,500

 

8      

Great Bear

Canada

31,300

 

9      

Aral Sea

Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan

30,700

Saline, once 4th

10   

Malawi

Malawi Tanzania Mozambique

28,900

 

11   

Great Slave

Canada

28,568

 

12   

Erie

Canada, USA

25,667

 

13   

Winnipeg

Canada

24,387

 

14   

Ontario

Canada, USA

19,529

 

15   

Balkhash

Kazakhstan

18,300

Saline

16   

Ladoga

Russia

18,130

 

17   

Onega

Russia

9,891

 

18   

Titicaca

Bolivia, Peru

8,135

 

19   

Nicaragua

Nicaragua

8,001

 

20   

Athabaska

Canada

7,920

 

21   

Rudolf

Kenya

6,405

 

22   

Reindeer

Canada

6,330

 

23   

Eyre

Australia

6,216

Saline, Ephemeral

24   

Issyk-Kul

Kyrgyzstan

6,200

Saline

25   

Urmia

Iran

6,001

Saline

 

The SA-Victorian Border Dispute

South Australia's boundaries were first established in 1834 by the South Australian Colonisation Act of the British Parliament. They were defined in terms of latitude and longitude when scarcely anything was known of the land except the coastline and the course of the River Murray. The eastern boundary was established at 141° east longitude but, when the position of this line to the south of the River Murray was marked by the surveyors Wade and White between 1847 and 1849, the border was erroneously set some two minutes of longitude (approximately 3 km) west of this meridian. The correct position was determined in 1868, during preparation of marking the border with New South Wales. A lengthy dispute arose with Victoria over South Australia's 'lost' border strip, and this continued until the Privy Council ruled in favour of maintaining the status quo in 1914.

 

 

Figure 32 - Border Misalignment on at River Murray/SA Border

 

 

Figure 33 – Mulberry Tree dating from 1836 at Reeves Point, Kangaroo Island

VICTORIA (1851)

Victoria is a State of Australia that covers an area of 227,600 sq km and has a population of about 4,765,900 people. Its capital city is Melbourne (pop. 3,417,200). Victoria is Australia’s most diverse state and its major agricultural and industrial producer. Its landscape consists of mountains, rainforests, deserts, snowfields, beaches, vineyards, wheatlands and market gardens.

 

History

European settlement began in 1803 and the Aboriginal people were quickly dispossessed of their lands. Estimates suggest that by the 1880s there were just over 800 Aborigines left in the state.

Melbourne was established in 1835 by a group of Tasmanian entrepreneurs, and is the youngest city of its size in the world. Although the settlement was not named until 1837, its characteristic grid layout was imposed by military surveyor Robert Hoddle the same year, and by 1840 over 10,000 people had been attracted to the area.

The colony of Victoria was formed in 1851, with Melbourne as its capital, coinciding with the discovery of gold which swiftly transformed them both. Gold brought a huge influx of immigrants from around the world, and the wealth it generated created a city of extravagant proportions. This progress was, however, temporarily halted in 1890 by the first of many devastating financial crashes which have afflicted the economically vulnerable city.

The ethnic mix of Melbourne's population has always been an important influence on the city's character: the Chinese and Irish diggers attracted by gold in the 19th century and the postwar arrival of refugees and migrants from all over Europe (particularly Greece, Italy and Yugoslavia) and more recently from Vietnam and Cambodia, have all contributed elements of their cultures to what could otherwise have been a conservative English society.

After World War II, Victoria went into a long period of stable conservative government, until the 1980s, when the Labor party took office and the state hit boom times. Land prices just kept going up, and so did buildings, until 1990 when the economy fell in a heap. In 1992 radical conservative autocrat Jeff Kennett took the reins, provoking ire and admiration in seemingly equal doses.

 

Interesting Facts

·        Mangroves are often considered to be tropical tree species, but the World’s most southerly occur within Wilson’s Promontory National Park at Miller’s Landing. The protected and shallow waters of Corner Inlet allow them to grow prolifically.

·        The Murray River makes up much of the border of the between Victoria and New South Wales. To be specific, the border is actually the southern high water mark of the river so that none of the Murray is actually in Victoria. This boundary definition can be ambiguous, however, as the river has changed its course slightly since being defined in 1851.

·        West of the 141° East line of longitude, the river continues as the Victoria - South Australia border for 3.6 km. Here, the border runs down the middle of the river and this represents the only part of the Murray that is actually Victorian. These different alignments are due to a miscalculation in the 1840s when the border was originally surveyed (see Figure 32).

 

 

Figure 34 – Victoria

 

 

Figure 35 – Mangroves near Miller’s Landing, Corner Inlet

 

Figure 36 – Map showing Wilson’s Promontory National Park


Victorian / Tasmanian land border

In 1801 Captain James Black surveyed the positions of the Hogan Group, a group of islands south of Wilson’s Promontory in Bass Strait. Later in the nineteenth century the maritime border between Victoria and Tasmania were set at the 39°12′ South line of latitude.

More accurate survey equipment later found that the border actually bisected a small island called North West Islet. The island, since renamed Boundary Islet, is approximately 85 metres wide and therefore is the smallest land boundary among the Australian states.

 

Figure 37 – Boundary Islet (formerly known as North East Islet)

 

 

Figure 38 – Map showing the state border bisecting North East Islet (now named Boundary Islet)

 

QUEENSLAND

Queensland is Australia's second largest state covering 1,730,648 sq km and has a population of about 1.6 million people. Brisbane is the State's capital and is Australia's third largest city.

History

Brisbane was established when New South Wales needed a better place to store its more recalcitrant convicts. In 1824 a penal settlement was established at Redcliffe Point on Moreton Bay. This location was soon abandoned in favour of the riverside site to the south where Brisbane's business district now stands. The penal settlement was abandoned in 1839 and the area was thrown open to free settlers in 1842.

A subsequent plan to restart a penal colony after the end of transportation in the older Australian colonies was short-lived. In 1846 the British parliament proclaimed a colony called North Australia that encompassed most of present day Queensland and Northern Territory but this had been revoked as a poor idea by 1847.

In 1859 a separate colony of Queensland was proclaimed. From the 1860s the colony began to shed its convict background and to develop its huge agricultural and mineral resources.

Despite a country-wide climate of giving unquestioned support for Britain, World War I saw Queensland vote in an anti-conscription Labor government. Labor hung on to government until 1957, introducing a series of social and industrial reforms including compulsory voting and workers' compensation. After this time, Labor was replaced by a conservative Liberal-Country Party coalition.

Queensland’s more recent history is dominated by the Joh Bjelke-Peterson regime which lasted till the late 1980s, thanks to electoral boundaries that favoured the rural over the urban. At this time Queensland’s government was at odds with the rest of the country in matters such as human rights, conservation and Aboriginal land rights.

Nonetheless the State has continued to experience rapid economic growth largely due to its ample coal and other mineral resources. This, and the State’s favourable climate, has attracted a massive wave of internal migration. Since 1980 over half a million Australians from other states have moved to Queensland.

 

Interesting Facts

·        The Great Barrier Reef is the largest reef in the world.

·        Australia's border gets as close as 1 km to Papua New Guinea so nearly all islands in Torres Strait are part of Queensland.

·        Queensland is much decentralised with most of the population living outside Brisbane.

·        Adelaide is closer to Brisbane than Brisbane is to Cairns.

·        When originally proclaimed, Queensland’s western border was the 141o East line of Longitude and represented a straight line extension of the South Australia and New South Wales border. In 18xx Queensland gained more of what is now the Northern Territory when this border was moved to 138o East.

 

Figure 39 - Queensland

 

Figure 40 - Torres Strait Islands

 

 

Figure 41 – Cape York - The Most Northerly Point of the Australian Mainland

 

Australia’s Four Corners

Australia has four ‘corners’ – the locations where the straight line borders of the state’s meet, or turn. Poeppel, Haddon and Cameron Corners can be reached reasonably easily by four wheel drive. In contrast, Surveyor-General's Corner is very remotely located within Wingellina Community and access is typically denied. Indeed, this Corner is said to have had fewer visitors than the South Pole.

 

Table 11 – Australia Four Corners

Corner

States

Location

Surveyed

Commemorates

Poeppel

SA, Qld, NT

26° S and 138° E

1878

Augustus Poeppel, Surveyor

Haddon

SA, Qld

26° S and 141° E

1883

 

Cameron

SA, Qld, NSW

28° S and 141° E

1880

John Cameron, Surveyor

Surveyor-General's

SA, NT, WA

26° S and 129° E

 

 

 

 

Figure 42 – Australia’s Four Corners

 

Figure 43 – The marker posts at Poeppel, Haddon and Cameron Corners